From the Anglo IndianKhan Zama’s ‘Koosni’

From the Anglo IndianKhan Zama’s ‘Koosni’

Blue eyed Betty’s chicken loaf.

Anglo Indians area special class of people created by the cupid’s arrow, flying,between Europeans who came to India as traders in the 16^th century and the locals. The offspring’s of such liaisons were called Anglo Indians. They set up their own society following the western culture to the hilt, except for the bland food, for they inherited the saucy, spicy tongue from their Indian genes. 

In the ‘koosnis’ [kitchens in Tamil] of the white sahibs, was a delightful flavor of Indian and British food, spiced suitably to suit the Indian palate. The Indian khanzamas wore a big turban, to flaunt their knowledge in this novel cuisine. Theyinvented various fusion dishes and some became world famous like the mulligatawny soup and railway cutlets.  Madras or Chennai had few sockets which had a concentrated population of Anglo Indians. Be it Roypuram, Purusuwakam, or Perambur the Saturday night dances and the food laid out were, really worth enjoying and relishing.

My friend Betty was the wife of Air commodore Jeff D’Souza. Theywere, Anglo Indians from Luck now. Jeff‘s heritage was connected to the famous Cliff Richard who was born in Lucknow and when he was 5, was sent with his sister to London. Engel Bert Humperdinck was born in Chennai and called Arnold George. Both the singers were born to British army men, with the mothers having Anglo Indian ancestry.  According to recent research done, the Duke of Cambridge has Indian ancestry also. Dennis La fontaine’ the late Air Chief, was said to be related toEngel Bert and would tell us stories of his grandparents, who knew him. A great foodie and artist, the chicken loaf saw a great revival at his dinner table. I have had many meals at his place in Delhi and always saw the Chicken loaf and mulligatawny soup, occupy pride of place, along with innumerous delicacies.

Most of the Anglo Indianswere excellent chefs and musicians. Their railway club dances and weekend soirees used to reflect, all this.  Rudyard Kipling was born in Bombay and in his later years came back to India and worked with the media. His books were centered on the natural beauty and stories of the hill/jungle folk. ‘’The Jungle Book’ tells the whole story. He loved the mixed fare called Anglo Indian cuisine and always relished its punchy savory ting.

Betty was no exception to being an expert cook and she did all her baking in a tin, placed in a square tin box, placed over a stove not even gas. Blue eyed Betty cooked andbaked a lot and everybody looked forward to the fare she would create. The soups especially the spinach and mushroom ones, the plain cakes and pies, localized to suit our palate weredelectable. Coconut rice,Fish rissoles, Kedgereeor the LucknowiPotroast in a copper pot areunforgettable. I was most fascinated by the’Khanzama Chicken loaf, which isa heritage recipe which had been handed down by her family for 9 generations.

 The chicken loaf boasted its own pride of place at all birthdays, weddings and ceremonies. It combined the baking aspect of the English loaf and the spices and taste of the Indian masalas. A spicy slice of this special chicken loaf,was Dennis La Fontaine’s favoritetea time snack.This dish was created by a Khan Zama, named Bheema Samy George Peters. ,somewhere towards the end of the 17^th century, after trade with English, Portuguese, Dutch , Persia and other countries gave a whole new spectrum to Indian food.

I am,presenting this famous heritage dish, with a few changes and additions to suit the modern palate. You can bake it in an oven or a tin oven which sits on the gas. Even a pressure cooker will do.

‘KHANZAMA” KOOSNI “CHICKEN LOAF’.

SERVES –4 -6.

PREPARATION TIME –30 MINUTES.

COOKING TIME –11/2 HOURS.

CALORIES PER SERVING ---270.

Type of cuisine -----Anglo Indianheritage. Dish.

Ingredients

·        ½ kg of chicken minced and ground.

·        1 medium cup flour.[Maida ]

·        ½ bunchspinach chopped fine.

·        Onion diced /and fried. .

·        ½ cup of diced mushrooms

·        ¼ cup celery diced.

·        ½ tsp. roasted cumin powder

·        ½ tsp.roasted fennel seed powder.

·        1 carrot grated.

·        1 potato boiled peeled and smashed.

·        Small piece ginger grated

·        2 pods garlic roasted and powdered.

·        ½ cup cheeses [of one’s choice] Parmesanor any of the natural cheeses or processed cheeses used for baking.

·        1tsp baking powder.                                                           cumin

·        1 cup unsalted butter.

·        ½ cup baked beans. Ground.

·        1 large egg

·        1 cup milk

·        1 cup toasted bread crumbs

·        1 teaspoon salt

·        ¼ tsp. cinnamon powder.

·        1 tsp.chili flakes

·        1 teaspoon pepper

·        1 tsp.Brown sugar.

·        2 tablespoons grainy mustard

·        1/3 cup ketchup

·        ¼ tsp. grated nutmeg.

·        ½ cup almonds,walnuts,cashewnuts and raisins diced fine.

o   Directions

·        Preheat oven to 350 degrees

·        Boil and smash potato

·        Peel and grate carrot

·        Blanch spinach in boiling water, cut into pieces.

·        Cut celery stalks into bits.

·        Cut mushrooms into four bit and sauté’

·        Peel , roast and  powder garlic

·        Peel and dice ginger.

·        Grate cheese.

·        Grate nutmeg.

·        Powder cumin, fennel and cinnamon, after roasting.

·        In a largemixer  bowl, add the chicken mince, flour,egg, , milk and bread crumbsor bread pieces, salt, pepper, mustard., nutmeg, cheese, garlic, ginger, spinach, boiled potato, ½ cup baked beans , chili flakes cumin, cinnamon and fennel powder, 1/2 cup butter and grind nicely. Now add baking powder,cumin, fennel powder, cinnamon powder, and brown sugar grated carrots and sautéed onions and give it one grind.  Add chili flakes. Now remove and mix dry nuts., sautéed mushrooms and celery stalks. Add the rest of the butter and some milk and Mix thoroughly.

·        Add more of the salt and pepper if needed and mix.

·        Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). [If it’s a gas oven, light it 10 minutes before use.]

·        Butter a loaf pan.

·        . Make sure to grease your loaf pan before adding the mixture to it.

·        In a separate small bowl, combine the mustard and ketchup and a little grated cheese. Mix well and pour over the chicken loaf. .

·        Form into a loaf and place in a lightly greased baking dish.

·        Bake at 350 degrees F (175 degrees C) for 1 hour until the center is no longer pink.

·        You can serve this when slightly cold, cut into slices.

·        One of the best , original  Anglo Indian heritage chicken loaf

o   This is an original recipe and not available in any website or book.

o   TIP ----VEGETARIANS can replace chicken with Paneer, soya or sweet potatoes. Also instead of egg use fresh cream.

o   Chef Ramaa shanker.

Number of words 5100

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