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From the Anglo IndianKhan Zama’s
‘Koosni’
Blue eyed Betty’s chicken loaf.
Anglo Indians area special class of
people created by the cupid’s arrow, flying,between Europeans who came to India
as traders in the 16th century and the locals. The offspring’s of
such liaisons were called Anglo Indians. They set up their own society
following the western culture to the hilt, except for the bland food, for they
inherited the saucy, spicy tongue from their Indian genes.
In the ‘koosnis’ [kitchens in Tamil] of
the white sahibs, was a delightful flavor of Indian and British food, spiced
suitably to suit the Indian palate. The Indian khanzamas wore a big turban, to
flaunt their knowledge in this novel cuisine. Theyinvented various fusion
dishes and some became world famous like the mulligatawny soup and railway
cutlets. Madras or Chennai had few
sockets which had a concentrated population of Anglo Indians. Be it Roypuram,
Purusuwakam, or Perambur the Saturday night dances and the food laid out were,
really worth enjoying and relishing.
My friend Betty was the wife of Air
commodore Jeff D’Souza. Theywere, Anglo Indians from Luck now. Jeff‘s heritage
was connected to the famous Cliff Richard who was born in Lucknow and when he
was 5, was sent with his sister to London. Engel Bert Humperdinck was born in
Chennai and called Arnold George. Both the singers were born to British army men,
with the mothers having Anglo Indian ancestry.
According to recent research done, the Duke of Cambridge has Indian
ancestry also. Dennis La fontaine’ the late Air Chief, was said to be related
toEngel Bert and would tell us stories of his grandparents, who knew him. A
great foodie and artist, the chicken loaf saw a great revival at his dinner table.
I have had many meals at his place in Delhi and always saw the Chicken loaf and
mulligatawny soup, occupy pride of place, along with innumerous delicacies.
Most of the Anglo Indianswere excellent
chefs and musicians. Their railway club dances and weekend soirees used to
reflect, all this. Rudyard Kipling was
born in Bombay and in his later years came back to India and worked with the
media. His books were centered on the natural beauty and stories of the hill/jungle
folk. ‘’The Jungle Book’ tells the whole story. He loved the mixed fare called
Anglo Indian cuisine and always relished its punchy savory ting.
Betty was no exception to being an
expert cook and she did all her baking in a tin, placed in a square tin box,
placed over a stove not even gas. Blue eyed Betty cooked andbaked a lot and
everybody looked forward to the fare she would create. The soups especially the
spinach and mushroom ones, the plain cakes and pies, localized to suit our
palate weredelectable. Coconut rice,Fish rissoles, Kedgereeor
the LucknowiPotroast in a copper pot areunforgettable. I was most fascinated by
the’Khanzama Chicken loaf, which isa heritage recipe which had been handed down
by her family for 9 generations.
The chicken loaf boasted its own pride of
place at all birthdays, weddings and ceremonies. It combined the baking aspect
of the English loaf and the spices and taste of the Indian masalas. A spicy
slice of this special chicken loaf,was Dennis La Fontaine’s favoritetea time
snack.This dish was created by a Khan Zama, named Bheema Samy George Peters. ,somewhere
towards the end of the 17th century, after trade with English, Portuguese,
Dutch , Persia and other countries gave a whole new spectrum to Indian food.
I am,presenting this famous heritage
dish, with a few changes and additions to suit the modern palate. You can bake
it in an oven or a tin oven which sits on the gas. Even a pressure cooker will
do.
‘KHANZAMA” KOOSNI “CHICKEN LOAF’.
SERVES –4 -6.
PREPARATION TIME –30 MINUTES.
COOKING TIME –11/2 HOURS.
CALORIES PER SERVING ---270.
Type of cuisine -----Anglo Indianheritage.
Dish.
Ingredients
·
½ kg of chicken minced and ground.
·
1 medium cup flour.[Maida ]
·
½ bunchspinach chopped fine.
·
Onion diced /and fried. .
·
½ cup of diced mushrooms
·
¼ cup celery diced.
·
½ tsp. roasted cumin powder
·
½ tsp.roasted fennel seed powder.
·
1 carrot grated.
·
1 potato boiled peeled and smashed.
·
Small piece ginger grated
·
2 pods garlic roasted and powdered.
·
½ cup cheeses [of one’s choice]
Parmesanor any of the natural cheeses or processed cheeses used for baking.
·
1tsp baking powder. cumin
·
1 cup unsalted butter.
·
½ cup baked beans. Ground.
·
1 large egg
·
1 cup milk
·
1 cup toasted bread crumbs
·
1 teaspoon salt
·
¼ tsp. cinnamon powder.
·
1 tsp.chili flakes
·
1 teaspoon pepper
·
1 tsp.Brown sugar.
·
2 tablespoons grainy mustard
·
1/3 cup ketchup
·
¼ tsp. grated nutmeg.
·
½ cup almonds,walnuts,cashewnuts and
raisins diced fine.
o Directions
·
Preheat oven to 350 degrees
·
Boil and smash potato
·
Peel and grate carrot
·
Blanch spinach in boiling water, cut
into pieces.
·
Cut celery stalks into bits.
·
Cut mushrooms into four bit and sauté’
·
Peel , roast and powder garlic
·
Peel and dice ginger.
·
Grate cheese.
·
Grate nutmeg.
·
Powder cumin, fennel and cinnamon,
after roasting.
·
In a largemixer bowl, add the chicken mince, flour,egg, ,
milk and bread crumbsor bread pieces, salt, pepper, mustard., nutmeg, cheese,
garlic, ginger, spinach, boiled potato, ½ cup baked beans , chili flakes cumin,
cinnamon and fennel powder, 1/2 cup butter and grind nicely. Now add baking
powder,cumin, fennel powder, cinnamon powder, and brown sugar grated carrots
and sautéed onions and give it one grind. Add chili flakes. Now remove and mix dry nuts.,
sautéed mushrooms and celery stalks. Add the rest of the butter and some milk and
Mix thoroughly.
·
Add more of the salt and pepper if
needed and mix.
·
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175
degrees C). [If it’s a gas oven, light it 10 minutes before use.]
·
Butter a loaf pan.
·
. Make sure to grease your loaf pan
before adding the mixture to it.
·
In a separate small bowl, combine the
mustard and ketchup and a little grated cheese. Mix well and pour over the
chicken loaf. .
·
Form into a loaf and place in a lightly
greased baking dish.
·
Bake at 350 degrees F (175 degrees C)
for 1 hour until the center is no longer pink.
·
You can serve this when slightly cold,
cut into slices.
·
One of the best , original Anglo Indian heritage chicken loaf
o
This is an original recipe and not
available in any website or book.
o
TIP ----VEGETARIANS can replace chicken
with Paneer, soya or sweet potatoes. Also instead of egg use fresh cream.
o
Chef Ramaa shanker.
Number of words 5100
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